Monday, March 14, 2016

Oyabun "Boss" Japanese Ribs


Of course ribs aren't a common item in Japan, but they are here. This is a recipe I have been working on, fiddling with, adjusting. The basic Japanese cooking philosophy with these is to braise them, then finish - "nimono" or simmered style. Kakuni or Japanese braised pork is a common offering in this regard.

Part of the challenge here is if you wanted traditionally slow-smoked ribs, the wood smoke flavor either overpowers the miso and shoyu flavors, or the final product is too strongly flavored, and it is not balanced or entirely complementary flavors.

A fast cooking as with yakitori - and shoyu marinades works because the heat caramelizes the shoyu, slow cooking and smoke can give shoyu and miso a bitter off flavor if you aren't careful. I know because I have conducted many experiments trying different methods. One idea I have thought of trying is to add Sapporo beer to the braising liquid.

At the same time I am aiming for a bold dish. I want it to have traditional flavors, with a certain signature. Something unique. One of the flavors I am wanting to incorporate is "Shichi-mi tōgarashi" or seven-flavor chili pepper. These will be made for this year's spring "hana-kai".

2 racks baby back ribs
1 whole unpeeled bulb garlic, halved horizontally across the mid-section
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup tomato puree
1 cup sake
2 tbsp. rice vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
3 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. red miso
1 tbsp. tobanjan
1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
1 tbsp. sesame seeds, for accent
Shichi-mi tōgarashi, optional

Cut each rack of baby back ribs in half, which will yield 4 portions of 5 to 6 ribs each. To a large stockpot, add the ribs, 6 cups water, garlic, onion, carrot, tomato puree, sake, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, miso, tobanjan, and peppercorns and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat so the liquid gently simmers. Remove any scum or oil that floats to the surface. Cover the pot and cook until the ribs become tender, about 1 hour.

Remove the ribs from the pot and set aside, reserving the cooking liquid. To make the marinade, bring the cooking liquid to a boil over high heat and boil until it reduces by half and becomes syrupy. Remove from the heat and allow the liquid to come to room temperature. Transfer the liquid to the jar of a blender, cover, and pulse until smooth, about 1 minute. Pass the liquid through a fine-meshed strainer suspended over a large bowl and discard any solids caught in the strainer. Set the marinade aside.

Preheat a grill to hot. Grill the ribs for about 4 minutes, flipping once. Sprinkle with generous amount of Shichi-mi tōgarashi. When the ribs are browned and sizzling, brush the marinade on top. Grill for about 2 more minutes, flipping 2 or 3 times, and brushing on more marinade after each turn. Let the ribs rest for 2 minutes. Garnish with sesame seed and serve.

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