Kakuni – Japanese Braised Pork

This is a braised pork dish which literally means “square simmered" – cubes of pork are simmered for a long time with dashi, soy sauce, mirin, sugar and sake. This is a classic served at izakaya which are local pubs, taverns or the fancy new word - "gastropubs" in Japan.

Although the eating of meat was forbidden in Japan until the Meiji restoration era - one of the recorded historical recipes is very similar to this and that was made from wild boar on occasion. The wild boar are now extinct in Japan, which were hunted by the feudal lords for sport and leisure, and at times desperate and hungry samurai and ronin of the Warring States Era, and its pretty easy to assume that hungry peasants or villagers wouldn't be averse to a little forbidden treat now and again.
Its very versatile - you could add some crushed star anise or some fresh chiles into the braising liquid to add a hint of heat to the pork.

2 lbs. pork belly, or country-style loin ribs cut into cubes
1 piece of kombu seaweed
1 medium sized daikon, grated with liquid, approx 3 cups
1.5 inch piece of ginger, grated
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup sake
3 tbsp. mirin
1/4 cup shoyu such as Kikkoman or Yamasa, you could also use tamari.
2 cups dashi stock
Salt

Put piece of kombu in a pot of cold water. Soak the kombu for 30 minutes.
Add pork cubes into the pot of water with kombu and slowly bring to boil over medium/low heat. Once it reaches boil, take the piece of kombu out and discard. Allow the pork to simmer for another 2-3 minutes, then drain the pork and rinse.

Mix the grated daikon and ginger together. In a heatproof dish, place a third of the grated daikon/ginger mixture over the bottom of the dish. Place the pork cubes on top of the grated daikon/ginger and cover with the remaining daikon/ginger.
Place the dish over a steamer and steam for 2-3 hours (replenish the steaming water as necessary). The steaming flavors and tenderizes the pork.
Once the pork can be easily pierced with a skewer, remove the dish from the steamer. Place the pork cubes in a bowl of lukewarm water, gently rinse the pork cubes and let cool.

Refrigerate the pork cubes for a few hours or overnight.
Add sugar, sake, mirin and soy sauce to a large heavy bottomed pot/dutch oven. Add cool, steamed pork cubes and toss the pork around so it gets coated with the sauce, then add in 2 cups of dashi stock and simmer for 2-3 hours, turning the pork occasionally for even flavoring and coloring. The pork pieces should all fit in one layer.
Add a little salt to round off the flavors and simmered for a few more minutes. After all the simmering, the pork should be very tender and be covered with a thick dark glaze (a reduction of the braising liquid). Serve with hot steamed rice.

Oyabun "Boss" Japanese Ribs

Of course ribs aren't a common item in Japan, but they are here. This is a recipe I have been working on, fiddling with, adjusting. The basic Japanese cooking philosophy with these is to braise them, then finish - "nimono" or simmered style. Kakuni or Japanese braised pork is a common offering in this regard.

Part of the challenge here is if you wanted traditionally slow-smoked ribs, the wood smoke flavor either overpowers the miso and shoyu flavors, or the final product is too strongly flavored, and it is not balanced or entirely complementary flavors.

A fast cooking as with yakitori - and shoyu marinades works because the heat caramelizes the shoyu, slow cooking and smoke can give shoyu and miso a bitter off flavor if you aren't careful. I know because I have conducted many experiments trying different methods. One idea I have thought of trying is to add Sapporo beer to the braising liquid.

At the same time I am aiming for a bold dish. I want it to have traditional flavors, with a certain signature. Something unique. One of the flavors I am wanting to incorporate is "Shichi-mi tōgarashi" or seven-flavor chili pepper. These will be made for this year's spring "hana-kai".

2 racks baby back ribs
1 whole unpeeled bulb garlic, halved horizontally across the mid-section
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup tomato puree
1 cup sake
2 tbsp. rice vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
3 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. red miso
1 tbsp. tobanjan
1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
1 tbsp. sesame seeds, for accent
Shichi-mi tōgarashi, optional

Cut each rack of baby back ribs in half, which will yield 4 portions of 5 to 6 ribs each. To a large stockpot, add the ribs, 6 cups water, garlic, onion, carrot, tomato puree, sake, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, miso, tobanjan, and peppercorns and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat so the liquid gently simmers. Remove any scum or oil that floats to the surface. Cover the pot and cook until the ribs become tender, about 1 hour.

Remove the ribs from the pot and set aside, reserving the cooking liquid. To make the marinade, bring the cooking liquid to a boil over high heat and boil until it reduces by half and becomes syrupy. Remove from the heat and allow the liquid to come to room temperature. Transfer the liquid to the jar of a blender, cover, and pulse until smooth, about 1 minute. Pass the liquid through a fine-meshed strainer suspended over a large bowl and discard any solids caught in the strainer. Set the marinade aside.

Preheat a grill to hot. Grill the ribs for about 4 minutes, flipping once. Sprinkle with generous amount of Shichi-mi tōgarashi. When the ribs are browned and sizzling, brush the marinade on top. Grill for about 2 more minutes, flipping 2 or 3 times, and brushing on more marinade after each turn. Let the ribs rest for 2 minutes. Garnish with sesame seed and serve.