Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Tampopo Special Ramen

"Lacking neither substance nor profundity".
This is not college dorm ramen. This, is the real deal. The recipe is from the movie Tampopo. If you haven't seen it you should. Very entertaining. I don't want to give spoilers. I have made this broth many times and it is as the old ramen master says in the movie..."Lacking neither substance nor profundity", meaning it is excellent and well balanced.
There is also sort of a "zen" to eating ramen the old master imparts. Most of the ingredients are easy to find, with duck wing and menma being the exception. Chicken wings work just as well, and menma is a bit of an acquired taste.

Broth:
2 pounds of pork bones
2 pounds chicken or duck wings, each bone cut in 2 or so pieces
3 Japanese long onions, a bunch of spring onions or a leek or 2, roughly chopped
Half a head of garlic, each clove cut in half
Konbu
1 Knob ginger, cut in 2-3 pieces
Salt
Enough water to cover all ingredients with a generous clearance

Pork:
3 pounds pork shoulder
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup sake
1/2 cup mirin
1 knob ginger, finely sliced
2 cloves garlic
1 bunch green onion, chopped

Other:
Negi (Japanese onion), sliced diagonally
Menma, this is fermented bamboo shoots (available at Asian markets)
Nori
Chuka soba (Chinese-style noodles)
Sesame oil
Soy sauce

Broth:
Place bones in a pot of water, bring to a boil and cook for 1-2 minutes. Drain and discard the water before rinsing bones under a cold tap. Combine bones with other ingredients and bring to a light simmer - never a boil, or the soup will cloud, keeping going, uncovered, for about seven hours. You will probably need to add a little water to keep your 1-2 inch buffer of water above the bones and other ingredients. Once it's done, strain it as much as possible, and either use it, keep it on the low fire for a day of running your ramen shop, or cool and refrigerate or freeze it.

Pork:
Brown the pork all over before simmering it over medium-low heat in a mixture of all the other ingredients for 1.5 hours. Let it cool. For classic ramen chashu, all you have to do is let it cool a bit and thinly slice it (about 4mm).
The braising liquid is great reserved.


Boil some water.
Heat bowls and put a few tablespoons of soy sauce (and a dash of the pork braising liquid if you have it) in the bottom of them.
Dice the pork and quickly stir-fry it with the sliced negi.
Meanwhile put the noodles into the boiling water for about 2 minutes and drain.
Ladle the broth into the bowls, followed by noodles and the negi/pork mixture. Add menma on the side and finish off with a drop of sesame oil over the pork. Done.

For more classic shoyu ramen, combine the soy in the bowls with broth, add noodles, serve with a strip of nori, thinly sliced pork, negi, menma and any other toppings you desire.

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